I am longing to go back to Versailles. (I am the old one with the very white hair.)
If you have been reading this blog or my Early American Gardens blog, you know that it is not so much the castle, but the grounds that attract me. You can stand at the Chateau's Hall of Mirrors & look all the way down the Royal Path & Grand Canal, past the statues & Water Parterre to the very horizon.
In 1661, Louis XIV commissioned André Le Nôtre to lay out of his gardens. Thousands of men dug & carried soil in wheelbarrows for the flower beds & Orangerie.
An army of men dug the fountains & canal and terraced the grounds. Stonemasons carved & set the stones. Artists sculpted the statues.
Men with horses & carts hauled hundreds trees from all the provinces of France. And thousands of men maintained the gardens, once they were installed, as the king changed his mind about the design moment to moment.
André Le Nôtre planned the 2 large rectangular Water Parterres to reflect sunlight to light up & give the illusion of extending the façade of the Hall of Mirrors. It was all about that sun, wasn't it.
Four reclining bronze statues attended by nymphs & children symbolise the rivers of France. Early Greeks & Romans depicted their rivers as reclining bearded old men, crowned with reeds, holding an oar or a horn of plenty, portraying the water as a source of wealth. After all, water made crops grow, & trade goods were most easily transported by water.
The 1674 Statues of Seasons are a group of 24 male & female figures originally intended to adorn the Water Parterre. There is also an allegorical statue of America dressed as an Indian with an alligator at his feet--a rather disturbing concept of the new world across the Atlantic.
The Water Parterres lead to 2 fountains, the 1697 Animal Combats, announcing a large flight of steps leading down to the central Latona Fountain, attended by 6 allegorical statues: Air, Evening, Noon & Daybreak, Spring, & Water.

André Le Nôtre's Grand Canal transformed the east-west perspective into a long, sunlight-filled sheet of water which would reflect the sun (of couse) & on which members of the court & visitors could play. In the summer the King’s fleet of appropriately-sized vessels sailed along it, while skaters & sleighs full of merry celebrants glided over the frozen waters during the chilly winters.
Workers removed tons of soil to build the Swiss Ornamental Lake and hauled it across the landscape to prepare the king’s vegetable garden, which he reached walking along perfectly geometric paths lined with trees.
If paths form the skeleton of the gardens, the trees form the walls.
Beyond the Parterres, the gardens are criss-crossed by a network of geometric pathways. In the 17th century, workers lined the walks with fences & trees meeting overhead or elms clipped to form green walls.
Some paths offered niches holding statues.
The Royal Walk runs down the middle lined with 12 statues & 12 vases, placed in symmetrical pairs. Paths lead off the sides to the groves.
My long walk down the garden path. The Water Walk is flanked by urns & statues & 22 groupings in bronze holding marble bowls of Languedoc, a wine apparently popular for quenching the thirst of early garden walkers. Promenading can produce quite a desire for additional liquids.
The Bacchus (Autumn) & Saturn (Winter) walks have 2 fountains with gilded lead statues. In his guide to the gardens, Louis XIV speaks of them in these terms:
“on the other side, the royal walk, Apollo, the canal, the green groves, Flora, Saturn, Ceres on the right, Bacchus on the left.”
André Le Nôtre believed in light, water, & geometry. He designed water ornaments throughout the gardens: cascading in groves; spraying from fountains; & the still water of the artificial lakes reflecting the sky & sunlight at the Water Parterre & the Grand Canal.
Inspired by Ovid’s Metamorphoses, the dominating central Latona fountain illustrates the legend of Apollo’s mother protecting her children against the insults of the peasants of Lycia. She calls on Jupiter to avenge them. He hears her plea & transforms the impudent peasants into frogs & lizards. In general, it is not wise to disparage someone's mother.
The marble fountain of Latona & her children was originally placed on a rock in 1670. It was surrounded by 6 frogs, formerly insulting peasants, emerging partly from the water & 24 other additional frogs around the fountain on the lawn. The grateful mother goddess gazes towards the horizon past the Grand Canal. The Latona fountain is prolonged by a parterre holding the 2 lizard pools. Yes, lizards--more of those impertinent peasants.
The 4 fountains dedicated to the seasons near the Royal Walk are all the same size and smaller than the central Latona fountain. Well, she was, after all, Apollo's mother; and she had been seriously insulted by those insolent peasants, now frogs & lizards.
An Apollo or Swans Fountain had existed there from 1636, which Louis XIV decided to decorate with a gilded lead statuary group representing Apollo on his chariot.
Located at the crossroads of several groves is the fountain of Flora, Roman goddess of flowers & gardens, which, not suprisingly, symbolises spring.
The 1672 Ceres Fountain shows the Roman goddess of harvests & corn, seated on a bed of corn stalks, accompanied by cornflowers & roses. Symbolising summer, this fountain forms a set with those of Bacchus, Flora, & Saturn representing the seasons of the year.
The Neptune Fountain shows Neptune, Amphitrite, Proteus, & the Ocean god. This structure is famous for the number, the force, & the variety of the jets of water playing over the lead sculptures. It reportedly features 99 water effects for an extraordinary aquatic spectacle. There is no explanation as to why they did not try for a round 100.
The Water Path begins with the half-moon Dragon Fountain depicting the Python snake killed by young Apollo's arrow. The unfortunate reptile is surrounded by dolphins & cupids armed with bows & arrows riding on swans. On either side of this fountain paths lead to two groves, France Triumphant, & Three Fountains in the west.
The present-day Queen's Grove replaced the original Labyrinth that illustrated 39 fables of Aesop with lead animals in fountains painted in natural colors. Probably a pretty lively sight. Built in 1669, it was destroyed during the replanting of the gardens in 1775-1776, replaced by the more sedate Queen’s Grove. The present sculpture here was installed in the late 19th century.
The Ballroom was laid out by André Le Nôtre around 1680. The open-air ballroom is also called the Rocaille Grove for the millstones & the sea shells brought back from the coasts of Africa & Madagascar over which water pours down in a cascade. Royal visitors danced on a marble “island” in the center while musicians played above the cascade. Weary dancers could rest, or whatever, in an amphitheatre with rows of grassy seats.
The Girandole Grove, decorated with towering sculptures on tapering plinths, replaced old quincunxes in the south planted under Louis XVI. It is surely true that statues are easier to maintain than those geometrically planted quicunces.
In 1677, two pavilions here of white marble were built surmounted by glorious domes, giving it is present name, although both buildings were destroyed in 1820. Apparently domes are not easily forgotten.
The Encelade Fountain was sculpted in lead aroung 1675. The subject is the fall of the Titans, who were buried under the rocks of Mount Olympus, which they tried to climb in defiance of the prohibition of Jupiter. It is not wise to disobey a god.
The Orangerie offers a very wide space, high trees, & pure lines. It houses (as you might suspect from the name) over 1000 orange trees plus lemon & pomegranate trees which are over 200 years old. Sheltered indoors in the winter, the boxes are carted outdoors when the sun warms the air & placed on geometric flowerbeds, consisting of 6 sections of lawn plus a circular pool.
The South or Flower Parterre, is reached by a flight of steps flanked by 2 of the oldest sculptures of the park, depicting Eros & the Sphinx. In the 17th century, brightly colored flowers were planted & replaced constantly, as they declined. (Much like the tightly managed Disney parks today, where no withering bloom is allowed to remain on a plant--garden fantasy taken to a new level.)